From Daily Life To Top Fashion Circle, Han Style Clothing Has Gradually Become A Trend

Recently, the 11th Chinese National Costume Exhibition and Xitang Hanfu Cultural Festival attracted many traditional culture lovers to gather in the south of the Yangtze River to share the beauty of Chinese etiquette costumes and feel the glorious history and unique charm of Chinese costume culture. At the same time, a group wedding ceremony of traditional Chinese clothing was held in Futian, Shenzhen, allowing citizens to immerse themselves in the beauty of traditional Chinese clothing and the richness of traditional Chinese etiquette.

In recent years, Han style clothes have become popular quietly. Ru skirt, horse face skirt, cloud shoulder stick, crane, pattern, embroidery and other traditional Chinese clothing elements seem to have met for thousands of years and become an indispensable highlight in the International Fashion Week. Nowadays, from street corners to immersive scenic spots, from daily life to top fashion circles, Chinese traditional clothing elements are everywhere. Hanfu "out of the circle" has become a cultural phenomenon attracting much attention.

The full name of Hanfu is "traditional costumes of the Han nationality", also called Hanyi Guan and Huafu. In a narrow sense, the Han clothing mainly refers to the traditional Han clothing before the generation, characterized by the collar, right lapel, lace, loose cuff, etc. It is the continuation and development of the ancient Han clothing, which pays more attention to its shape and historical origin; In a broad sense, Han costume is a general term for Chinese ancient traditional costumes. Although the costumes of some dynasties, such as the Yuan Dynasty and the Qing Dynasty, were influenced by Mongolian and Manchu costumes, they still have obvious characteristics of Chinese traditional costumes and are an important part of Han costume. At present, most people understand that Hanfu mainly refers to Chinese traditional costumes in a broad sense.

The development of Han clothing has a long history, which can be traced back to "emperors, Yao and Shun wear clothes and govern the world", with a history of more than 4000 years. The upper garment and lower garment are the earliest form of Han clothing. In the Han Dynasty, there was a title of "Han Fu" in Hanshu. In the Tang Dynasty, Han costumes were elegant and magnificent. In the Song Dynasty, Han costumes were calm and restrained. In the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, the Hanfu, on the basis of retaining the traditional characteristics, absorbed some foreign cultural elements and formed the Hanfu with the characteristics of the times. Since modern times, influenced by western culture, Han costume has been impacted to a certain extent, but it continues and develops in some traditional folk festivals and activities. Nowadays, with the rise of traditional culture and the enhancement of national pride, with the help of social media communication, cross-border integration, etc., Hanfu has gradually become a fashion and trend, radiating new vitality in contemporary society.

The traditional costumes of each era have their own characteristics, beauty and beauty. Hanfu lovers choose different costumes according to their own preferences, forming a situation where a hundred flowers bloom. At the same time, when Hanfu has gradually become a popular culture, different schools have emerged, which can be summarized as follows: first, traditional Hanfu schools, which are committed to inheriting and restoring ancient Hanfu, pay attention to the historical facts and traditional technology of clothing, and pay attention to shape, color, pattern, etc. This school studies ancient documents and objects with a rigorous attitude, and strives to restore the original appearance of Han clothing. The second is to revive the Han clothing genre, with the promotion of traditional culture as the core, retain the traditional Han clothing style, follow the modern aesthetic, and innovate to design the Han clothing suitable for modern people. This school innovates in the process of inheritance, so that Han style clothing can be better integrated into modern life. The third is the elements of Han style clothing, which separates the representative elements of traditional Han style clothing and combines them with modern clothing to form a new kind of clothing with unique style and create creative clothing. These three schools are also called "textual criticism school", "reformist school" and "fairy clothing school" by Han clothing enthusiasts.

Hanfu craze fully shows the strong vitality of Hanfu, indicating that Chinese traditional clothing is young. However, with the Han style clothing moving from the minority to the public, there are more participants and followers, and related problems are gradually exposed. The so-called layman looks at the bustle, while the layman looks at the way. The Hanfu craze, to some extent, caused some people to "join in the fun", that is, blindly follow the trend, and the resulting chaos also occurred from time to time.

First, because of the "magic change" and "random building", it makes people laugh. Nowadays, Hanfu is widely used in film and television plays, variety shows, immersive scenic spots, cinemas and other scenes. From its starting point, it should be a serious matter whether to inherit the traditional clothing or to cater to the market and capture the hearts of people, and basic lessons should be done adequately. However, the news of "Devil's Change" in XX's film and television plays or variety shows, and the random use of Han suits, which has been criticized, is often seen on the Internet. Due to the lack of understanding of relevant history, clothing evolution and other information, some immersion scenic spots have an embarrassing situation that the cultural theme does not match the traditional clothing, and "selling dog meat by hanging sheep's head"; Some ancient costume dramas, from color to style, expose the lack of historical knowledge and the lack of professionalism of clothing, the disorderly matching of clothing and headwear, which neither respect history nor lack aesthetic feeling; Some studios and other commercial entities make profits in the name of Hanfu. Second, because some people have cognitive bias, they have some improper behaviors or misunderstandings in the process of dressing, clocking and taking photos.

Hanfu craze needs cold thinking and facing up to these phenomena and problems, so that we can better promote the inheritance and development of Hanfu.

On the one hand, China has always been a country of national dress and etiquette. Traditional costumes are an important carrier of Chinese culture and etiquette. From ancient times to the present, China has a tradition of expressing etiquette through costumes and rituals. The Han costumes in different periods have different styles, either elegant and elegant, or exquisite and gorgeous, or low-key and dignified. The changes of customs are also reflected in the changes of clothing fabrics, styles and styles. However, there are more and more people who experience and wear Hanfu, and few people know its connotation. From this point of view, the production and use of Hanfu need certain norms. Without norms, Hanfu will lose its historical and cultural value and the sense of sanctity of etiquette. This requires the joint efforts of experts and scholars in history, aesthetics, clothing and other related disciplines to form relevant norms, and guide and standardize the production and use of Han style clothing through various platforms. In the promotion and sales of Hanfu, a background introduction and instructions may be helpful. On the other hand, as folk custom experts said, "the best inheritance is to go into life". Nowadays, the daily Han style clothes that integrate fashion elements and reflect consumers' personality are becoming popular. In the process of promoting the daily use of Han style clothing, all parties concerned should not only focus on innovation to meet the needs of the current public, but also guard against losing the typical characteristics of Han style clothing and changing it into neither fish nor fowl.

Some people say that "confident people are more beautiful in Han suits". Self confidence here essentially reflects cultural confidence from the inside out. At the same time of the appearance of Hanfu at various international fashion weeks, many Chinese young people have pushed Hanfu to the world stage through short videos. Some people wear Hanfu to go to the city centers and squares of foreign cities to show the beauty of oriental clothing and win the world's attention. Chinese traditional clothing is in its youth, benefiting from the initiative of Chinese youth force after group, and the consciousness and confidence of people to inherit and carry forward the excellent traditional culture of China.

(Author: Han Dan, Associate Professor, School of Fine Arts, Northeast Normal University)

(Source: Guangming Daily)