The Investigation Report Of China'S Foundries Is An Eye Opener.
"Reality Behind Brands" CSR Hypocrisy:An Investigative Report on China Suppliers of of, the real situation behind the hypocrisy of corporate social responsibility hypocrisy: "," China's supply chain survey report ", the report said that the above fast fashion brand promotion and subcontracting factory survival environment is quite different.
The ZARA parent Inditex SA (ITX.MC) India India textile supply chain is concentrated in Asia, especially Bangladesh and China. The total number of supply chain workers in 2015 was 1123576, which is 8 times the total number of its 137054 employees worldwide.
According to the report, because of the fast fashion and the price war brought by competition, the above fast fashion brands and groups can only become the top three fast fashion brands in the world by reducing the cost to the supply chain.
Garment manufacturer
What this brings is the poor living environment of factory workers in supply chain.
Although ZARA parent Inditex SA (ITX.MC) Indo textile and H&M parent H&M Hennes & Mauritz AB HMb.ST (HMb.ST) Hayne Maurice disclosed the supply chain data from 2013, and the above enterprises have related policies and a large number of factory inspection measures. However, in the supply chain factory, the documents were fabricated and forced to lie in front of the factory without being aware of it.
The investigator, SACOM, said in 2015 and in the spring of 2016, undercover investigations were conducted in four workers' factories in the coastal and inland provinces of China, located in Guangdong, Anhui, Shandong and Hubei, in the spring of 2016.
The survey found that the social enterprise policies of the three brands of ZARA, H&M, GAP, and GAP seem to be very comprehensive. However, the survey of SACOM indicates that the reality and brand in the factory are quite different from those claimed by their suppliers in corporate social responsibility policy.
The above four factories are Hennes & Mauritz AB Hayne and Maurice's foundry factory: Wuhu Seduno Fashion Co., Ltd. Wuhu lion Dun dress limited, Laizhou cherry garment garment, Ningbo Laizhou cherry Garments Co., Ltd., as well as the supplier of "Yin and Yang" Indo Textile Co., Ltd.
SACOM said that although the above three brands and groups have regulations on working hours in the code of conduct of enterprises, including suppliers, factories must comply with national legal working hours, factory workers must rest for one day per week, and factory workers are not allowed to work for more than 48 hours per month and overtime for more than 12 hours.
However, through the undercover investigation of the organization, it was discovered that these factories forced workers to work overtime in order to reach the urgent delivery time of brands.
Workers are often subjected to tremendous pressure from management and other workers. In order to complete production requirements, they sometimes start working at half past seven in the morning, leaving work at 1 o'clock in the morning, and only take one day off a month.
Among them, Wuhu lion Dan every day to evaluate each production line, showing the number of brand orders, the number of production, the remaining quantity, and workers usually difficult to complete the index.
Wuhu lion
A worker in a production line is required to complete 60000 H&M vest orders within 8 days, but only one day, the workers only finish 12% orders, so they get 6 "crying face" scores in the evaluation.
According to an interview with SACOM, a Wuhu lion employee, a production manager at Wuhu Dan Dan tried desperately to H&M inspectors in Wuhu when he accepted the quality inspection of H&M employees. "I will make sure that I deliver the goods on time," he said.
SACOM survey found that Nanbao shoe factory in the South China Sea, workers have been working overtime for a long time, there is a severe fine system, once the absence, the fine rubber production line is fined 300 yuan, the molding line will be fined three times wages.
In addition, even if it is sick, the production line staff can not ask for leave without the approval of the production manager.
Some employees said he had to work with illness until the production manager felt his forehead was really hot before he approved the half day holiday.
Even with the above long hours and severe working conditions, the wages of the workers are still quite low.
According to the SACOM survey, the codes of conduct of the brands stipulate that the supply factories must pay wages that can maintain the basic living needs of the workers. However, the wages of the above factories are calculated at a very small fixed price.
The peak season and frequent changes in the order of brands make the workers' wages unstable.
On the whole, the workers
wages
In essence, it is too low to sustain life.
ZARA, H&M, GAP and other brands and groups promise to provide a healthy and safe working environment at the supply plant, but in fact, workers often encounter toxic chemicals, cotton dust and harmful dust without adequate protective equipment.
Due to lack of training and safety measures, machine operation is not safe, fire escape passageways are narrow and unsmooth, and workers' health and safety are in danger all the time.
SACOM's investigation also revealed that all factory workers had no right to speak, which made it impossible for them to strive for a better working environment.
Although the above three brands and groups employ staff or cooperate with other organizations, there are numerous inspections every year. SACOM's investigation found that ZARA, H&M and GAP foundries not only prepare fake documents to hide problems in the work environment, but also instruct workers to lie when they check factories.
Therefore, although the brand social enterprise responsibility policy appears to be "evolving" in the past more than 10 years, relying solely on the top down and misleading method of checking the factory is only a matter of seeking the opportunity, and it is impossible to achieve the goal of fulfilling the responsibilities of the social enterprise.
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