Clothing Lining Renewal &Nbsp; See How To Choose Knitting Linings.

The development of clothing interlining has been developed from the first generation of cotton, linen and brown fabrics, as well as the second generation of black carbon lining (wool lining, Ma Weichen) and third generation resin lining to the fourth generation (spun and non-woven) hot melt adhesive linings, which are widely used in the modern clothing industry.

Types of knitted lining

The "adhesive stitching" of the adhesive lining simplifies the modern garment processing technology, and improves the efficiency of the industrial production.

Knitted lining is an adhesive interlining made of hot-melt adhesive coating on the base of needle cloth.

Knitted lining with warp knitted lining and weft knitting lining.

Knitted lining is an adhesive lining, and is a permanent adhesive lining. It is an important part of the fourth generation interlining (non-woven and spun adhesive lining) and the fifth generation interlining (improved adhesive lining).

Because of the characteristics of knitted fabrics, knitted lining has become a special interlining for knitted fabrics, which is different from ordinary adhesive linings. It is mainly used for the front, collar, button, cuffs, hem and pocket of knitted jacket, waist, slit (zipper fixing part), foot pin (HEM) and so on, so as to make local adhesion, and play a role of reinforcement, type maintenance and modeling.

Knitted liners can be divided into different categories according to different division methods.

According to the forming way of knitted lining cloth, it can be divided into warp knitting lining, weft knitting lining, non-woven stitching and lining.

According to the properties of knitted liner cloth, it can be divided into: high elastic lining, low elastic lining, four direction elastic lining, high support and high eye lining.

According to the use of knitted lining, it can be divided into: big body lining, collar lining, liner, bottom lining, cuff lining, pocket lining, waist lining, slit lining, draw bar lining and so on.

Selection of knitted lining

Knitted garments, especially knitted outfits, have many differences from those of woven fabrics.

The most common feature of knitted fabrics used for knitted garments is multi directional elongation.

Because no matter whether it is made of natural fiber fabric or chemical fiber fabric or other interwoven fabric, because of the string winding, the knitted fabric is very flexible.

Therefore, choosing and using the same or similar adhesive lining with the characteristics of knitted fabrics becomes the preferred condition for knitted garments (garments).

However, the choice of interlining with the same expansion characteristics of knitted fabric should not only consider the crispness of the knitted fabric after adhesion, but also require the use of a relatively stable knitting lining with different knitted fabrics in order to meet the need of design and modeling, so as to control the fabric's activities.

For example, the collar and cuffs of the knitted loose suit are better than those of the non rigid retractable woven or nonwoven interfacing.

According to the design purpose of knitted garments and the characteristics of garment fabrics, it is a key to choose knitting linings differently.

The adhesive linings used are different, and the knitted fabric has different activity properties after adhesion.

Careful consideration should be given to these changes when selecting lining, and careful and meticulous selection should be made.

Therefore, the use of knitted lining must be based on a clear understanding of the characteristics of knitted fabrics and knitted garments.

Knitted linings, which correspond to knitted fabrics and knitted garments, should have the performance and quality that meet the needs of knitted garments, so that they can be widely applied.

Its internal quality requirements are as follows: follow up (expansion), flexibility, fastness, anti stripping, edge rolling, breathability, moisture absorption, soft handle, easy to peel off, good seams, and easy to deform after washing.

In addition, it should also possess antistatic, antibacterial, low formaldehyde, health care and other properties.

The choice of adhesive lining must be noted that sufficient adhesion is required; no leakage of hot melt adhesive is found on the back; accurate bonding conditions should be set; the lining fabric should match the fabric.

When using adhesive lining, it is necessary to use adhesive (press) machine to do the following rigorous tests, including peel strength, adhesive leakage, hand feel, fabric shrinkage, fabric appearance quality change (foaming, yellowing, etc.), dry cleaning, water washing and so on.

According to these items, the adhesive test for all kinds of fabrics should be done. Proper selection of the adhesive lining should be selected to determine the bonding conditions that meet the requirements of adhesion so as to achieve the best matching requirement with the fabric.

Selection considerations

The process flow of each garment is different. Even if the same garment product is processed, the processing technology of each garment processing enterprise is different.

Therefore, there are differences in the adhesion equipment and performance of various enterprises in processing knitted lining.

Before preselected adhesive lining, 4 conditions (fabric shrinkage, pressing temperature, time and pressure, etc.) must be recognized first, then the adhesive lining can be pre selected, the bonding conditions can be set, and the correctness of the selection can be demonstrated through testing.

The main test and demonstration are as follows: confirm the fabric and fiber organization that conform to the garment design requirements, set the bonding temperature suitable for the fabric (for example, natural fiber is 160 degrees, synthetic fiber is 140 degrees); according to the fabric organization, set pressure (for example, woven fabric is 0.3kg/cm2, knitted fabric is 0.2kg/cm2); according to the quality and thickness of the fabric, determine the adhesive lining, set the pressing time (refer to the quality and thickness of the fabric specified in the adhesive lining factory, restrict the selected interlining, set the bonding hot pressing condition that meets the standard of the adhesive lining.

Before bonding test is done, the bonding time and conditions shall be set according to the setting temperature, the setting pressure and the standard of the test lining.

It is assumed that the bonding condition is determined by adhesion, adhesive leakage, hand feel, fabric shrinkage, fabric appearance change (discoloration, hair, printing, ironing, etc.).

In these tests, when abnormal conditions occur, it is necessary to change the adhesive lining or adhesion conditions, and then carry out the adhesion test again.

When the adhesion test results are normal, it is necessary to verify the blanching condition of intermediate and finished products: adhesive leakage and reverse leakage.

When abnormal, redo related tests.

In addition, washing tests and tests that meet the requirements of clothing design are also required: adhesion, adhesive leakage, handle and shrinkage.

When the results were abnormal, the contents of the shrinkage were tested again.

If there is no problem with the above test results, the final adhesive lining, bonding mode and adhesion conditions can be determined.

Before processing the knitted lining, enterprises also need to have a certain degree of understanding and understanding of liners' specifications, quality and performance, main indicators (such as shrinkage, peel strength, wrinkle recovery, etc.), types and characteristics of base cloth, types and characteristics of hot-melt adhesives, pressing conditions and pressing methods.

Before determining the processing technology, the relevant technical personnel should carry out the adhesion test with the bonding hot pressing condition and the method consistent with mass production, and determine the adhesive peeling strength, dimensional change, appearance change and hand feeling, until the qualification is reached (if the requirement is not met, the blanching condition needs to be adjusted continuously).

Garment processing has intermediate ironing and final finished ironing.

If necessary, in order to further confirm the reliability of the adhesion effect of the interlining, we can carry out the hot test of the interlining which is consistent with the actual garment ironing, so as to prevent abnormal phenomena.

After the above work is completed, the specifications of the required interlining can be determined by passing the (qualified) test, and the scientific and reasonable blanching methods and conditions can be set up to provide the standard parameters needed for mass production of garments.